Category Archives: Carlson / James Family Travel

Did I mention it was rainy season?

Baobab 1 Camp, just outside Chobe National Park, Botswana

We went to Kenya and Tanzania at the same time of year seven years ago, during what they called the “little rains.” Back then it usually rained overnight, so it didn’t really affect our plans. Based on that experience, we didn’t think the rainy season would be much of an issue this time either.

Well… it is the rainy season here. The groups ahead of us were each delayed by a day getting to the next camps in the Okavango Delta because the planes couldn’t fly. We’re scheduled to go in two days, so fingers crossed.

As for the weather, it absolutely poured during our first game drive. One vehicle got stuck in the mud, so everyone piled into the remaining vehicle for the ride back. Today’s game drive was much drier, and we saw lots of birds and grazing animals. The OAT travelers still haven’t seen lions or leopards, so we’re very glad we saw lions earlier in the South African part of the trip, before joining the OAT tour.

The camp here is pretty rustic—not only no air conditioning, no fridge, but it is probably more like a two star hotel – comfortable and clean. But the view from the main lodge area is incredible. It looks out over the plains along the Chobe River between Botswana and Namibia. I took a series of panorama shots with my good camera but will have to stitch it together when I get home. This one is from my Samsung phone.

I suggest making the photo full size by clicking the square in the bottom right corner. Then you can scroll around with your mouse. Press “Esc” when you’re done. It’s only a 180-degree view, so it loops back to the beginning and keeps scrolling, which makes it look like a full 360.

It’s hard to see, but there are waterbuck, giraffes, and impala in the picture—and even some cows from Namibia that wander over to graze.

I’ll update this page with the rest of our visit to Change National park later. We’re here for another two nights.

There is no towel art here

Toka Leya Camp, Mosi oa Tunya National park near Livingstone, Zambia

But we have air conditioning, a fridge, and Wi Fi in our “tent.” There is a spectacular view of the Zambezi River looking across to Zimbabwe, a mosquito net contraption that completely encloses our king bed at night, and staff who somehow knew our names the moment we checked in. These are like suites in a nice hotel, but with canvas wall coverings that allow us to pretend we are camping while enjoying every possible comfort.

Incidentally, I have been mispronouncing the Zambezi River my entire life. It is Zam-bay-zi, not Zam-bee-zi. We are still arguing with Mama G over whether it is Zee-bra, with a long E like “meet,” or ze-bra, with a short E like “met.” So far the tour group is firmly in the Zee-bra camp, except for Mama G. Both sides now have entrenched positions, although Sarah and Victoria seem to be returning to their English roots and siding with Mama G.

We are here for three nights. In the dry season the tour would normally have continued on to Kafue National Park, but this is the rainy season. That park is flooded and tours do not operate at this time of year. Instead, we are forced to remain in our air conditioned tents, enjoying a few relaxed days and, as the Barenaked Ladies advise, to “open the fridge and stuff”.

From our room we have seen zebras (Zee-bras!) and bushbucks. I have also been followed very closely (really, I was chased) along the elevated walkways by velvet monkeys who were after the mangoes I was carrying back to the room. I should have hidden them in my pockets instead of carrying them so obviously in my hands.

Toka Leya Camp is in Mosi oa Tunya National Park. At just 66 square kilometres, it is one of the smallest parks in Zambia. Its main claim to fame is its population of white rhinos, all of which are followed by armed guards 24 hours a day. This makes the rhinos remarkably easy to find. Our guides simply call the guards and ask where they are. The term white rhino comes from a mis-translation of the Afrikaans word “weit,” which is pronounced ‘white’ but means ‘wide’. That refers to their wide mouths for grazing. Black rhinos have more pointed mouths for eating leaves. There are other minor differences, but both rhinos are the same colour, which is grey. Unlike the rhinos we saw in South Africa, these still have their horns, so they look like proper textbook rhinos.

On our first evening we took a river cruise in small boats and saw hippos, crocodiles, and an impressive variety of birds. We also took a game drive through the park and spotted a small crocodile living in a puddle on one of the park roads, and a group of wildebeest yougsters playing “chasie-chasie” in the field. I have to be less afraid to increase the ISO on my camera because the shutter speed I used only captured blurred action.

Sarah and the ladies on the tour learned from Nono, the camp manager, just how versatile the chitenge is. The chitenge is the 2m piece of material that Mama G gave the ladies on the way to Hwange National park. It can be a covering, head-dress, and baby carrier. Depending how you wear it, it can also signify whether you are married or single. Almost every women we saw in the market had one.

Mosi oa Tunya means the smoke that thunders, a reference to the constant mist rising from the falls. There was a movement to rename Sarah’s sister Victoria to Mosi oa Tunya. I do not think it will stick, even though this is what locals call Victoria Falls, and Victoria does indeed smoke.

The falls themselves were not what I expected. They are about 500 metres wider than Niagara Falls and more than twice as high. During high flow periods, the water can form a solid curtain 1.7 kilometres wide. The flow is relatively low right now, which surprised me given the rainfall we have had. Presumably much of the river’s volume comes from farther upstream. The most surprising feature is that the falls empty into a gorge about 1.7 kilometres long that is only around 100 metres wide, followed by a single outlet that is also only about 100 metres wide. You can see the historical path of the falls carved into the landscape downstream. A picture really is worth a thousand words and it helps explain what I am trying to describe. The formation is the result of interesting geology. As I understand it, volcanic basalt flows solidified and later developed fissures running east to west. These fissures filled with sediment, and the resulting sedimentary rock eroded over millennia, exposing one fissure after another. We viewed the falls from the Zambian side today and will see them from the Zimbabwean side after our upcoming week in Botswana.

We also visited the Dr. David Livingstone Museum, which covers the full history of Zambia. Livingstone seems to be one of the rare early explorers who did the right thing in his lifetime and continues to be genuinely respected in the countries he visited. A walk through the downtown market in Livingstone was equally pleasant and notably free of aggressive attempts to sell us copper bracelets.

To coax us to eat more, a number of the staff said at mealtimes that “if you lose weight, I will get fired.” This is part of their strategy to make sure we suffer the Fat 5 I mentioned earlier. We got our revenge at our last dinner by giving the staff a tin of Quality Street chocolates for Christmas. Since they are making us gain weight, we decided to give them cavities. The group devoured them like a fresh kill. I’m happy to report that we did not lose weight, so the staff will survive to the next tour group. Perhaps they deserve a raise, because collectively we all gained weight.

On Saturday, December 20, we leave for Botswana for three days in Chobe, followed by three days in the Okavango Delta, and then return to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe for a few more days.

The view from our room.
This is Victoria's 'tent'
Ignore the windows. If it has canvas sides, it must be a tent
measuring sour milk for sale at the market
Chitenge in use as a baby carrier. We saw lots of these
Helping Mum go to the market
Bike repair shop
woodworking done here
There was a complete alley of hairdressers in the market. Braiding extra long braids into hair is all the rage at the moment.
traditionally, corn/ millet were pounded using a mortar and pestle. Grinders are available in the market.
white rhino
the male is the larger one
Not a yawn - this hippo is displaying his territorial warning.
This large croc seems to be missing part of its tail
2m (6') Croc in a puddle on a park road
Wildebeest calf taking a break from playing 'chasie-chasie'
Black heron doing canopy feeding. Internet aficionados will recognize this as a 'night time.... day time!!!'  bird
Cattle Egret
Rock Pratincole on the banks of the Zambezi
Vic Falls from the Zambian side
Vic Falls from the Zambian side
The bridge connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe - Zambia on the left.  Bungee jumps available!
Vic Falls from the Zambian side.
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The view from our room.
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“I have to check the tire pressure”

Big Makalolo Camp, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
14-17 December 2025

That is what you say on safari when you really need a pee break. Other acceptable variations include:
“I need to pick some pretty flowers,”
“I need to raise the water table,” or simply,
“bush bushie.”

So far, everyone has been postponing this necessity except for our driver, who has already “checked the tire pressure” once.

We left Pretoria on Sunday, 14 December, and flew to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. After landing, we met our trip leader, Mama G, and immediately set off on the long drive to Hwange National Park. For the next three nights, we are staying at Big Makalolo Camp, deep inside the park. It is glamping, with large solar powered tents, sun heated hot water, and unexpectedly what appears to be “towel art 2.0”. The wildlife is impressive, but the towel animals may be stealing the show. Sarah and I avoided showering so the towel elephants could survive another day.

On the way, we passed through Hwange, a coal mining town dominated by a 1,520 MW coal fired power plant and several nearby mines. Most, if not all, of the mines are owned by Chinese firms and produce coking coal for Chinese steel mills. Our guide explained that these companies employ relatively few local people and contribute little to the surrounding community.

By my own calculation, I am about 55 percent nerd. Others may disagree. In any case, I have been tinkering with my camera again, this time experimenting with custom modes. I have set Custom Mode 1 ( C1) for single shot still photos of animals, while C2 is configured for 20 frames per second to capture animals or birds in motion. There is a lot more to it than that, but at only 55 percent nerd, I will spare you the details. If I am shooting stills, I turn the dial to C1. If a bird takes flight, I switch to C2. It saves a lot of fiddling.

You will not notice much difference in the still photos, but when a bird takes off, and if I manage to keep it in the frame, C2 gives me a decent chance of a sharp image as the camera adjusts autofocus for every shot.

Photographing birds in flight is much easier said than done. A large zoom lens at full extension makes tracking anything a challenge. And as one of five passengers in a safari vehicle, I cannot reasonably ask the driver to reposition for better light or have everyone wait patiently for a bird to cooperate. At 20 frames per second, I will admit to deleting many photos with the bird only partially in the frame, or not in the frame at all. Good thing digital photos are free. But I am having fun.

We had a disappointing game drive on Monday afternoon, followed by a very good one on Tuesday morning, including seeing a cheetah cub. The problem on Monday was our guide had heard that painted dogs were in a particular area of the park, so we headed there. By the time we arrived, the dogs were gone. The group in the other vehicle stayed behind to watch elephants instead of venturing off, and ended up surrounded by them. By the time we returned, we had missed everything. Oh well. As Mama G always says, “Safaris are like a box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to get.” Actually, she has not said that, as she has not seen the movie let alone much TV. But I will suggest it.

The real reason for our better game drive today could be that Mama G gave us a “nyami nyami“, a token worn around the neck representing the river god and meant to bring good luck. I had forgotten to wear it yesterday for the bad game drive, but remembered it today.

Sabona (hello!) . One of the special features of an OAT trip is a Day in the Life experience, offered once on each journey. You meet local residents and talk with them about what daily life is really like. After our morning game drive, we visited the town of Ngamo, population about 500. The community traces its roots to a group that split from the Zulus and moved north about 200 years ago. They speak ndebele, a click language and one of Zimbabwe’s 16 official languages.

Each family lives within a fenced area shared with goats and chickens. Zimbabwe is a country in transition, and places like Ngamo still follow many traditional practices, including a fairly strict following practises of respect and dress, arranged marriages, and the payment of a dowry, or bride price. Second wives are possible, though apparently becoming less common.

We met the matriarch of one family, along with one of her daughters, several granddaughters, and various cousins and neighbors. They have a compound with seperate bui;dings for kitchen, bathroom, sleeping area and meeting area. The houses are built from sand taken from a vacated termite mound, which forms a concrete like material when mixed with water. They are topped with a thatched roof. The floors are made of the same termite sand material, with leaves rubbed in to add color and reduce dust. They grow their own millet, sorghum, and corn in a fairly large garden, and have a mango tree in the yard. The mangos were spectacular. It is not quite subsistence farming. The small amount of cash they need comes from selling surplus crops or from money sent by relatives living in the city.

We sampled a typical meal, including fried mopane worms. The “worms” are actually caterpillars that feast on mopane tree leaves. They were slightly crunchy and salty, and did not taste like chicken. They’re a common source of protein in the traditional diet, and Mama G says she loves them. She also enjoys the fried bugs that swarmed us while we ate dinner. While she has not yet been to north america, she is not interested in trying escargot, shrimp, or mussels, which are among my favourites. I suppose that makes sense, in its own way.

Zimbabwe’s current challenge is staggering unemployment, estimated at around 90 percent. Education will help, but only if there are jobs when students graduate. Mama G noted that many well educated Zimbabweans end up in South Africa driving for Uber. It is a difficult and deeply complex problem.

On Wednesday, 17 December, we leave for Toka Leya Camp near Livingstone, Zambia, with one final game drive on the way out of Hwange. We will stay at Toka Leya for three nights.

Ngiyabonga (thank you!)

Towel art 2.0
View from Big Makalolo main area
View from the Big Makalolo main area - with ostriches
African painted dogs. We're not suppored to call them wild dogs any more.
Tawny eagle
Google lens say Steppe Eagle. I'm not so sure
google lens says Steppe Eagle. I'm not sure.
Lesser spotted eagle?
One of two cheetah brothers
mug shots
poor guy had flies buzzing all around
Cheetah cub
cheetah cub
Lark
Bradfield's hornbill
Fully grown male steenbok. They are a little bigger than the dik-dik's we saw in Tanzania
Sable Antelope checking to make sure we saw his 'african salute'.
Velvet monkey
Southern Carmine Bee-eater
Swainson's Francolin
African Hoopoe
Baby ostriches. The guide said they are easy prey - each time he sees them there is one less.
Male ostrich
Kori bustard
They say they are built from spare parts.The wildebeest has the horns of a cape buffalo, stripes and legs of a zebra and sloped back of a hyena
Grey crowned cranes
White bellied storks
The vultures turn at a Kudu
Greater kudu
Greater blue eared starling
the appropriately named black winged stilt
Knob billed duck. It needs to stand a certain angle to show the blue wing tips
Red crested korhaan (suicide bird)
Roan Antelope (endangered)
Lilac-breasted roller
Southern giraffe
Helmeted guinea fowl looking for seeds in the elephant poop
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Towel art 2.0
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Kruger National park … and some other stuff

Since my last post, we’ve taken a boat tour through Blyde River Canyon, spent a day in Kruger National Park, and enjoyed our final game drive at the lodge.

I feel like the “Fat Five” has begun to make its appearance. The food here has been exceptional, and every meal ends with dessert. Refusing would feel almost rude. So, as visitors to this country, and for the sake of diplomacy, we’ve eaten everything set before us. It seems only right. As experienced safari people, Sarah & I ‘get it’, Victoria, the safari newbie, does not quite grasp the concept and usually orders half portions. She should get with the program because I’m sure staff are talking about us behind our backs.

It’s always a pleasure to be out on the water. The Blyde River Canyon tour was a relaxed hour-and-a-half boat ride. We seemed to get on the “party boat”. I’m not sure what the occasion was, but the many locals on the tour were having a raucous time.

The dam at the outlet stands 71 metres high. The resulting reservoir isn’t used for power generation, but instead provides steady irrigation for the many citrus and mango farms we passed during the hour-and-a-half drive from the lodge. The landscape in the gorge was striking: red rock and green vegetation reminiscent of Sedona, combined with the scale and height of the Grand Canyon. Interesting to see, though truth be told, we would have preferred another safari.

Our day in Kruger National Park was spectacular, punctuated by light drizzle and occasional rain. I wrote earlier that our lodge was adjacent to Kruger. In fact, it took Mike, our guide, an hour to drive there at highway speeds… so not that close afterall! On our drive, we spotted a cape buffalo, and a pack of african wild dogs making quick work of an impala.

Kruger National Park covers 19,500 square kilometres—roughly three times the size of Banff National Park, just under three times the size of Algonquin park, or just slightly smaller than the state of New Jersey – pick the analogy that works for you. The area around our lodge is more heavily forested, with a few tall trees and dense clusters of smaller trees and bushes. By contrast, the section of Kruger we explored was much more open: the occasional large tree, scattered shrubs, and small trees set amid wide grassy expanses. This openness made wildlife easier to spot, and the game seemed correspondingly more abundant.

At one point we passed within a few metres of a pair of male lions lying beside the road. The photo below was taken on Vic’s iPhone; I had my large zoom lens mounted at the time. Yes, I should have switched to my other lens instead of ending up with a close-up of eyes and nose. But there was a long line of cars waiting for their turn, and for some unknown reason, I did not think ahead while we were waiting.

We hadn’t fully appreciated how lucky we were at the lodge to have private game drives with just the three of us plus Sammy and Vusi, our driver and spotter. On our final lodge drive, there were nine guests in the vehicle. They were all very pleasant, so we have no complaints. But it was quite a change. We did find the rhinos again and the cheetah still hanging around the electric fence. We also visited a separately fenced area where a small herd of Cape buffalo is being raised. Apparently, there are potential health issues for buffalo on the Kruger side of the main road, so this group has been kept separate. Once their numbers increase, they’ll be released into the rest of the reserve. With only 15 buffalo and no experience with predators, releasing them too soon would almost certainly end badly: the lions would make short work of them before the buffalo learned how to survive in an area with predators.

Overall, we enjoyed our stay here. There was one weird thing: the lodge has some questionable art and coffee table books: they were slightly risqué and seemed inappropriate and out of place. We also felt overcharged on the tickets to the boat tour that we bought through the lodge – but shame on us though for not looking elsewhere first. Victoria really enjoyed the on-reserve game drives. That’s not surprizing as this was her first safari. It was nice for Sarah and I to get reacquainted with safaris, but we know there are much better safaris to come. We are all looking forward to those.

We left the lodge on Friday just before lunch and spent about an hour at Bosveld Village on the way to Hoedspruit Airport. Unfortunately, Vic sprained her ankle on an unmarked step. Hopefully there is a speedy recovery in her near future. From Bosveld, it was a 15 minute ride to the airport, a one-hour flight to Joburg, a 46 minute ride on the Gautrain to Pretoria, and a painful (for Victoria) 9 minute walk to get to the ANEW Centurion Hotel. We have today to ourselves, and tomorrow (Sunday) we join the OAT tour group for 17 days of safaris in Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia.

view from the lodge
Strangling fig tree on the lodge grounds
Apparantly you need snake decorations on your christmas tree
Sundowner with Sammy and Vusi
Blyde river canyon
It's a party!
The "weeping face of nature"
African wild dogs with a former impala
Here we are
Taken with her iPhone
lion in the grass
Grey Heron
Lilac-breasted roller
Southern Carmine Bee-eater
Martial Eagle
Guinea fowl
Red crested Korhaan
Two kudu's testing each other's strength
Kudu's
male impalas
newborn wildebeast
You need to be taller than this sign
Baby burchill's zebra
female waterbuck
male waterbuck
cooling off in the afternoon heat
Elephant daycare on a fieldtrip
Everything into the mouth.. same as humans
Momma
life is good with no predators inside the fence
juvenile cape buffalo
young rhino
Young hippo getting some sun
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view from the lodge
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Who knew cheetahs had first world problems?

Khaya Ndlovu Safari Manor, Hoedspruit,South Africa
Dec 8 – Dec 12 2025

Khaya Ndlovu Safari Manor sits near Kruger National Park, within its own 5,500-hectare (13,500-acre) private nature reserve. Unlike the conservancies and parks we visited in Kenya and Tanzania, this reserve is fully enclosed by an electric fence. The larger animals—giraffes, lions, cheetahs, wildebeest, rhinos, elephants, zebras, kudu, and various impalas and gazelles—can’t leave, though smaller creatures can slip through or burrow under. Because it’s a closed ecosystem, wildlife populations are managed to keep everything in balance, though I’m not entirely sure how. Sammy, our guide, mentioned that some of the animals were brought in from other countries when the reserve was first established, so there must be a regulated wildlife trade to support this.

The manor itself is lovely, with sweeping views from the restaurant, the adjoining outdoor seating areas, and the infinity pool. The food has been excellent, the staff warm and attentive, and our air conditioned rooms very comfortable. We’re not glamping yet! Interestingly, the owner has been selling residential lots within the reserve, though not near the manor. Apparently about 35 lots exist, on which 24 houses have already been built. If safari life is your passion, you can literally live it every day.

We’ve been doing both early-morning and late-afternoon game drives. Although I’m not fond of “ticking animals off a list,” we certainly saw plenty including our first close-up rhinoceros. The horns grow continually, so these particular rhinos have their horns trimmed every few years by local authorities, making them worthless to poachers and therefore much safer.

We also came upon a group of five lionesses that had recently taken down an adult giraffe. They had eaten so much that each one looked as though it couldn’t get comfortable, and they were regularly rearranging their lying position. Yet they were still unwilling to abandon the kill. The vultures perched in the nearby trees waiting patiently for their turn to feed, while thousands of flies swarmed the carcass. The stench was overpowering and the noise of the assembled flies was just a little less than a ‘jet plane’ reading on a dB meter.

On an afternoon game drive, we spotted a cheetah staring forlornly through the electric fence. As we got closer, we realized the small animal it had been chasing must have thrown itself at the fence and forced the wires far enough apart to just squeeze through. Conditioned by growing up with the electric fence, and too big to fit through the small opening, the cheetah couldn’t follow. Who knew cheetahs had first world problems? To be fair, I think this is actually the first world causing cheetah problems.

I’ve been getting lots of use out of my larger lens and I’m very happy with the results. There are many more detailed close-ups than I was able to take in our previous safaris, especially of birds. I’ve already forgotten all the bird’s names, but I’m sure google lens will be my saviour!

This will be the first of two posts from the Manor. We’re doing a boat tour of a canyon near Hoedspruit on Wednesday, then spending Thursday in Kruger National Park. We’ll wrap up with one more game drive Friday morning before flying back to Johannesburg. I’ll cover all of that in the second post.

I can't believe it got through the fence
Did you see that? I'm so disappointed
Marking its territory
5 full lionesses
I ate too much again!
maybe if I lay this way for a while...
Sammy, our guide, on the right. Vusi, the spotter, on the left
Steenbok (an antelope) . Those are flies on its face
Pale chanting goshawk
Red billed oxpecker - you see these on all the large mammals eating fleas/ ticks
Southern Giraffe - look for the oxpecker near its right horn
Southern giraffe - Mother and child
its easier to walk on the road
Dung beetles
The female dung beetle hitches a ride while the male rolls the baseball sized dung
Yellow billed kite
Lesser Kudu
Zebra (Burchill's Zebra according to google lens)
morning game drive
African hawk eagle
Rhino
Woodland kingfisher
Southern red-billed hornbill
European roller
Southern white crowned shrike
Elephant towel art in our room
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I can't believe it got through the fence
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Munich and Johannesburg

We flew on Lufthansa from Vancouver to Munich and then on to Johannesburg. Each leg was nearly ten hours long, with a nine-hour layover in Munich.

Since we found ourselves in Munich at Christmastime, we decided to make the most of our long break and visit the Christmas market at Marienplatz. We took the train downtown and arrived at the Glockenspiel just in time for its noon performance. Marienplatz was packed—uncomfortably crowded, in fact—with a forest of phones raised to record the show. I don’t think I’ve been in a crowd that dense since I was a young teenager with my parents at the Scoppio del Carro on Easter Sunday at the Duomo in Florence. Still, we managed to enjoy bratwurst and hot chocolate afterwards in a slightly quieter nearby square before heading back to the airport.

I visited Senegal two years ago to do some consulting for a South African engineering firm. We’ve kept in touch, and Drew arranged to meet us during our day in Joburg—or Jozi. We spent a very pleasant afternoon with his family at home, but he first took us to the Apartheid Museum, which was excellent and deeply sobering. I think I mentioned on our Peru trip that we Europeans have a lot to answer for. That’s certainly true in South Africa as well: centuries of slavery, followed by the discovery of gold and diamonds, all culminating in the formal entrenchment of apartheid.

The words of the South African Constitution’s preamble are displayed—dignified, hopeful, and surprisingly moving to read in that setting:

“We, the people of South Africa,
Recognise the injustices of our past;
Honour those who suffered for justice and freedom in our land;
Respect those who have worked to build and develop our country; and
Believe that South Africa belongs to all who live in it, united in our diversity.

We therefore, through our freely elected representatives, adopt this Constitution as the supreme law of the Republic so as to:
• Heal the divisions of the past and establish a society based on democratic values, social justice and fundamental human rights;
• Lay the foundations for a democratic and open society in which government is based on the will of the people and every citizen is equally protected by law;
• Improve the quality of life of all citizens and free the potential of each person; and
• Build a united and democratic South Africa able to take its rightful place as a sovereign state in the family of nations.

May God protect our people.
Nkosi Sikelel’ iAfrika. Morena boloka setjhaba sa heso.
God seën Suid-Afrika. God bless South Africa.
Mudzimu fhatutshedza Afrika. Hosi katekisa Afrika.”

Reading those words, and then stepping through the exhibits that document how far the country had to climb to reach them, was powerful. What struck me most were the uncomfortable parallels between South Africa in 1948, when apartheid was legislated, and aspects of the current political climate in the United States. Sobering, especially considering that it took South Africa forty-four years to undo the consequences of what was formalized in a single election.

We’re off to Hoedspruit and Kruger Park tomorrow for the first of our safaris.

Spicy bratwurst
christmas market in Marienplatz
Hot chocolate
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Spicy bratwurst
 
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Prep for the next vacation

South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia & Botswana — Christmas Safari 2025

We’ve booked our Christmas vacation this year to South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Botswana — another round of safaris, with some extra time in Cape Town. No kids this time, but Sarah and I will be joined by her sister Victoria. She’s easily one of my top four favourite sisters-in-law, so it should be fun.

Most of the safari part (the “lion’s share”?) of the trip is organized by Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) — the same company that handled our Peru and Ecuador trip last year. All the reviews of their Africa tours have been very positive, so our expectations are high.

This page is mainly a test of the new camera and a refresher on how to update the website. Unlike our Peru and Ecuador trip, I’m going to make an effort to post updates as we go. I’m still annoyed at myself for losing my notes from that last trip.


The New Camera Gear

Earlier this year, I replaced my old Olympus OM-D EM5 II with an OM System OM-1. I’d planned to get the latest EM5 replacement travel camera, but OM System were clearing out the OM-1, and it was only about $100 more than what I intended to spend — an easy decision as the OM-1 is a much better camera than what I was considering.

My lens lineup includes:

  • a new M.Zuiko 12–100mm f/4 PRO
  • a new M.Zuiko 100–400mm f/5-6.3 IS II
  • a lens from my old gear: Leica DG Summilux 25mm f/1.4 prime

I agonized over buying the 100–400mm lens, but finally picked it up during this year’s Black Friday sales — thanks largely to Thomas Eisl’s excellent YouTube review. Since the OM-1 has a Micro Four Thirds sensor, the 35mm equivalent doubles the lens focal length — giving me an equivalent coverage of 24–800mm when combining both zoom lenses.

The new setup is larger and heavier than my old kit, and I hope the weight doesn’t become an issue. I’m going to stick with a wrist camera strap rather than a neck or shoulder strap, so I’ll only look a little like a camera-toting tourist.


Camera Test Runs

To put the OM-1, and particularly the larger zoom lens through its paces, Sarah and I took our grandson to the Calgary Zoo a few weeks ago. Then, back home in Victoria, I headed to Swan Lake for some bird photography. I’m still working on capturing a sharp bird-in-flight shot: stay tuned.

As before, the photos here are on a slider — use the arrows on the photo or pick from the row of thumbnails to progress to another picture.

Note: There’s no post-processing on these images. The camera produces both JPG and RAW files; these are straight-from-camera JPGs, resized only to fit the website.

Meercat at Calgary zoo
Lioness at Calgary zoo through a chainlink fence
Western Lowland Gorilla at Calgary zoo
Western Lowland Gorilla at Calgary Zoo
Bald Eagle near Swan Lake, Victoria
I think this is a Ring Necked duck.  Swan Lake, Victoria
Lots wrong here. This is why I want to practise!  Not fast enough shutter speed, and it's flying the wrong way... but it was the only thing flying that I could catch
Peacock at Beacon Hill Park, Victoria
Peacock at Beacon Hill Park, Victoria
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Meercat at Calgary zoo
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Ecuador

Oh for heaven’s sake! I’ve misplaced my notebook with all my notes from the trip. I couldn’t find it this summer at the cottage, so I assumed it must be in Victoria. Now that we’re back in Victoria, I still can’t find it. I’ll have to look more carefully when we return to the cottage — there’s no way I would have thrown it out.

We spent some time in Quito and the Galápagos. I do still have all the photos, so I’ll post some and tell the stories behind them before our next vacation. Since we leave in three weeks, I’ll have to hurry!

By the way, our guide told us about the tortoise taken by Darwin in 1835 and subsequently named Harriet… but the guide did not know where Harriet ended up. We could fill in the blanks because we saw Harriet at the Australia Zoo in 2002 . The zookeepers there confirmed that this was Darwin’s Harriet at age ~171. I understand she has since died.

Marine Iguana
Land Iguana
Sea Lion
American Oystercatcher \
Galapagos tortoise
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Marine Iguana
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Iquitos and the Amazon

27–30 October 2024 – Ceiba Tops Lodge, near Iquitos, Peru

27 October

Our luck with the weather could not have been better. It began raining just after we arrived at the Iquitos airport and boarded the bus, and it stopped just before we stepped off the bus and onto the boat. When we reached the lodge, the skies opened again—right as we sat down for lunch.

After lunch, the rain stopped and we joined our new local guide, Luis, for a nature walk. The massive Ceiba tree—namesake of the lodge—was as impressive as the great kauri trees we once saw in New Zealand. The Ceiba tree is also called a Kapok tree and you may remember that kapok fibres provided the floatation for lifejackets in WWII. The trees are so big that I think one tree could have provided the kapok filling for all lifejackets used in the war!

We spotted plenty of birds and a few tamarin monkeys along the trail. Later, the group cooled off in the pool before retreating to the lodge for a pisco sour. What a lovely tour group we ended up with.

Then it rained steadily through the night.

The only ones in our group truly affected by the rain were Paul and Phyllis, whose thatched roof had a leak that dripped all night. The tour group arriving after us got the worst of everything: their flight into Iquitos was delayed several hours by a thunderstorm, and when they finally made it to the lodge, they were greeted by yet another downpour as they made their way from the boat to the lodge.

28 October

We were up bright and early at 6 a.m. for a planned birding tour, but with rain threatening, we shifted gears and visited the market in the nearby town of Indiana, Peru. (Not to be confused with Peru, Indiana!) I may not have the details exactly right, but I recall that the town’s founder had studied in Indiana in the United States and named this settlement after it.

Later that morning, we crossed to the far side of the river to visit a very small village and its school.

In the afternoon, we tried our hand at piranha fishing. Paul got a bite, but the rest of us managed only a few tiny catfish. On the boat ride back, we saw both pink and gray river dolphins. The pink dolphins truly are pink and live permanently in freshwater, while the gray dolphins swim all the way from the Atlantic—more than 2,000 km away.

After dinner, we joined a night walk where we spotted a small snake, katydids, frogs, turtles, and even a baby caiman.

29 October

Another early start—up at 6 a.m. for the canopy walk. Getting there was an adventure in itself: a boat ride to Indiana; a tuk-tuk trip to the Napo River; a second boat to the Explornapo Lodge; and then a one-hour walk through the forest to reach the canopy walkway. The platform is incredibly high, offering sweeping views of the canopy, though the birds are apparently most active at sunrise. (Perhaps we should have spent the night there!)

Back at the lodge, we were visited by a shaman who described traditional herbal remedies and performed a cleansing to sweep away our bad energy.

We ended the day back at Ceiba Tops Lodge with a swim, a drink, dinner, and another night walk.

30 October

We took an early morning birding trip by boat, spotted more dolphins, and returned once again to Indiana. In the afternoon, we visited a Yagua village closer to Iquitos, where we watched a traditional dance, tried a blow-dart demonstration, and even got to meet a pet sloth.

Iquitos has no roads connecting it to anywhere. It is essentially an island on the mainland, with everything arriving by barge or plane. That is changing, however, with a completed bridge and the upcoming construction of a highway to Brazil. The highway will pass very close to this Yagua village, and I’m sure their lives will change completely. Progress?

31 October – Departure

We left Iquitos and flew back to Lima.


Amazon Summary

This will have to wait until I find my notebook with all my detailed notes. I couldn’t locate it at the cottage this past summer, so I assumed it must be in Victoria. Now that we’re home and it still hasn’t turned up, I’ll have to search more carefully when we return to the cottage. There’s no way I would have thrown it out.

After our Amazon stay, we continued on to Lima, then travelled to Cusco, Machu Picchu, and Sacsayhuaman. Thankfully, I still have all the photos—so I’ll share those and reconstruct the stories behind them.

Lima

25 October 2024 – Lima Pre-trip / Day 1

Machu Picchu and the Galápagos have always been on our bucket list, so it didn’t take long to say yes when our cottage neighbours, Mark and Cindy, invited us on an organized tour with them. In all our years of travel, we’ve never joined a tour like this, so I’m curious to see what the experience will be like.

The journey to Peru was long: Victoria → Seattle → Miami → Lima. The actual flying time was only about 11 hours, but with layovers it became 28 hours of travel. We met up with Cindy and Mark in Miami and continued on to Lima together. We arranged to arrive a day and a half before the tour officially began, just to get our feet under us.

A minibus arranged by the tour company picked us up at the airport and dropped the four of us at the Jose Antonio Hotel in Miraflores, an upscale district of Lima. We celebrated our arrival with the mandatory Pisco Sour—though I still think Sarah’s father makes a better one. Perhaps we’re simply used to the lemons he prefers, while Peruvian bars typically use limes.

The next morning, we walked along the Miraflores escarpment overlooking the Pacific. Despite it being a Friday, the paths were busy with people enjoying the ocean air. The terraced tennis courts were full, and the waves seemed perfect for beginner-intermediate surfers.

In the afternoon, we took the Mirabus double-decker tour as an easy introduction to the city. Lima has 11 million people, and it felt like all of them were driving—the traffic was astonishingly bad. It took us 1.5 hours to travel 9 km back to the hotel. Our driver, however, was remarkably calm, suggesting this is simply daily life here. We later learned that the traffic was worse than usual for two reasons: (1) each district has a road-improvement budget that must be spent by December 31, so construction ramps up in the fall, and (2) a main access road to the coastal highway was closed for repairs, forcing everyone onto alternate routes.

Lima’s historic centre dates back to 1535, shortly after Pizarro’s conquest of the Incan Empire. The early churches, convents, and civic buildings were first constructed in the mid-1500s and have been rebuilt or added onto many times after “Ring of Fire” earthquakes. It was startling to remember we were in the Americas; in Canada, aside from a few old forts, virtually no continuously used buildings predate the early–mid 1800s—almost 300 years younger than central Lima.

I’m fascinated by how different cultures developed across the continents. According to Dr. Google, the Incas, Aztecs, and Mayans built strong central governments and cities with millions of people, with even earlier cultures preceding them. Meanwhile, North American Indigenous groups developed smaller, family-centred social structures. Climate must have played a major role—surviving harsh northern winters leaves less time for building giant urban centres. One day I’d like to spend more than a few minutes reading about this!

We met the rest of the tour group and Ivonne, our local guide, on Saturday morning. After lunch at a local restaurant, six of us took a trip to Pachacamac, a major religious centre founded long before the Incas. You can trace the site’s history through the changing construction materials used over the centuries.

As interesting as Pachacamac was, the shanty towns around Lima captured my attention even more. If I understood correctly, about four million people live in these informal settlements that ring the city. Homes typically begin as a single brick room and expand over time as families grow and can afford additions. Eventually the city installs water and sewer services, and residents start paying taxes. The worrying part is Lima’s seismic risk: when (not if) a major earthquake hits, these largely handmade brick structures will be dangerously vulnerable.


26 October — Lima, Day 2

We met the full 11-person tour group on Saturday morning. Other than Mark and Cindy, we were all strangers—Americans from various states, plus the two of us. It’s a different way to travel. With group tours, you gain a knowledgeable guide and everything is arranged for you; you simply “hold onto the rope” and go. The trade-off is that we did very little research before arriving—something we’d normally consider essential for independent travel. We did read Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams, but really should have done more.

We repeated our walk along the Miraflores cliffs, then after lunch, six of us took a small bus to Pachacamac. The site, founded around 400 AD, was once a major spiritual centre—about a thousand years before the Inca Empire. You can see the layers of history in the evolving building styles and materials.

Again, the shanty towns left the biggest impression. About four million people live in these sprawling settlements, building their homes gradually as money allows. Eventually the city formalizes services and taxation. But being on the “Ring of Fire,” Lima is highly vulnerable to earthquakes, tsunamis, and volcanic activity. When a major quake hits, these homemade brick homes could collapse, putting millions at risk. Yikes.

After the tour, a young guide shepherded us to the airport, reminding us roughly 50 times to go to Gate 3, and then snapping a group photo as we headed into security. Larry joked that the photo was probably for her supervisors—as proof she had successfully delivered her “package” of 11 tourists, much like an Amazon driver. Job done!

Next stop: the Peruvian Amazon.