26-29 October
Zagreb, Croatia

Compared to Sarajevo, Zagreb is more distinctly European. Unlike Sarajevo, it was never part of the Ottoman Empire, so there are no neighbourhoods where you feel you could be wandering around Istanbul. Instead, Zagreb wears its Austro-Hungarian heritage on its sleeve, with impressive old buildings and streetcars rattling through the downtown streets.

We spent our time wandering around the Old Town, browsing the markets, riding the funicular, and visiting the Museum of Naïve Art. We also stopped for a snack near Flower Square, which is a pleasant place to sit and watch the city go about its business… pleasant except for the number of people who smoke! The cigarette smoke has been terriblethroughout our trip in the Balkans. The funicular was a novelty, although it doesn’t take long to appreciate it: Zagreb’s is famously short, making the ride more of a brief interlude than a major expedition. Still, getting around is part of the fun of exploring a new city.

Sarah and I walked over to the Opera House. Carmen was playing that evening with a Croatian cast, but the performance was sold out. We admired the building from the outside. It would have been nice to see the interior, but we had just seen Carmen in Vienna, so we already knew the ending. No suspense there.

Zagreb has also had its share of bad luck. An earthquake struck in 2020, just as the world was dealing with COVID. The damage is still evident in parts of the city. Some buildings have yet to be fully restored, giving the historic centre an unfinished look in places. The most conspicuous example is Zagreb Cathedral, whose towers remain completely wrapped in scaffolding. Apparently, the earthquake wasn’t entirely to blame for the long-running construction project. The cathedral had already been undergoing almost continuous renovation since 1990, as weather, pollution and the general wear and tear of centuries took their toll. Our guide joked that he might never live to see the cathedral without scaffolding.

Zagreb was an enjoyable city to explore on foot. It may not have the dramatic historical contrasts of Sarajevo, but it has its own Central European character, attractive streets and plenty of places to stop for a bite to eat.

Plitvička jezera (Plitvice Lakes) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site a few hours west of Zagreb famous for its unusual limestone and dolomite geology. The park consists of a series of 16 lakes, connected by waterfalls and cascades as the water tumbles from one level to the next. The water was remarkably clear, with an almost unreal turquoise colour in places.

We followed the walking trails through the woods, crossing wooden boardwalks and getting close to the lower lakes and waterfalls. The scenery was beautiful, with water seemingly everywhere, flowing over limestone ledges and through the lush greenery. It was a pleasant walk, although we were definitely sharing the experience with plenty of other people. At times, the crowds made it less of a peaceful nature escape than one might have hoped for. Still, it was easy to see why the park is so popular.

pictures coming soon